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About Your Heating and Air Conditioning
System |
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Heating and Cooling
Appliances 101 Steam Boiler; A Steam Boiler is a Caste
Iron Heating Appliance, either Oil Fired or Gas, that heats up the water in
it to the point where it produces steam. The steam goes out of the boiler,
through the steel or copper piping, and branching out to each radiator. Some
steam piping has a smaller pipe coming off at the end of the run and
returning back to the boiler, either above the boiler water level or below,
and sometimes on or below the floor. There should be a drain installed at the
lowest point to drain any of the system sludge that has accumulated there.
Ideally, the dryer the steam, the more efficient the system will operate. Steam
Boilers of "Olden Days" were large contraptions that would take
over a half an hour and longer to produce steam from a cooler start. This
meant that the speed, or velocity, that the steam moved through the pipe was
slow and much dryer, leaving much of the moisture, or condensate, back in the
boiler. This was referred to as a "High Mass", (because of the bulk
of the old boiler) "Low Velocity" (because of the long span of time
creating steam and the speed in which it traveled in the pipe) type of
system. The new Steam Boilers are much smaller in size, in some cases a third
to a quarter the size, and produce steam in a much quicker span of time,
usually with-in 5 to 8 minutes. This in turn produces a much higher velocity
of steam travel, therefore creating too much condensate by siphoning water
out of the boiler and carrying it into the steam supply piping. Too much
condensate in a steam system produces boiler sludge (water + air + steel =
rust and iron deposits, "Boiler Sludge"), and boiler sludge builds
up in pipes and in the boiler and slows the heat transfer down, reducing the
efficiency of the system. To slow the velocity of the steam down, the boiler
should be piped with the correct diameter of piping around the boiler, have
an equalizer pipe connecting the end of the supply header to the return port
of the boiler, and a "Hartford Loop" at the proper height in the
equalizer pipe where ALL return piping from the system should be piped into.
Since steam is essentially a gas with moisture vapor with it, it is critical
that it remains in this state until it reaches the radiator, where it starts
to cool and transfer its heat to the caste iron. As it cools the moisture
vapor turns into condensate and flows back down the bottom of the steam pipes
and back to the boiler. It is very, very important that the water vapor does
not condensate in the steam piping, because it will lose its heating capacity
there in the pipes and not in the radiators, thus taking longer and more
heating energy to eventually heat up the radiators. It is very critical that
ALL steam piping above the water line of the boiler be well insulated with
the proper insulation.
Unfortunately, not all Installers know how to pipe a steam boiler correctly
nor do they understand the principles of steam heating. Some boiler
installation manuals are a little on the vague side when it comes to
displaying the correct pipe size and distances certain parts of the piping
system need to adhere to, and they only offer minimum pipe sizes, but a good
installer has the knowledge to properly pipe a boiler to the specifications
of the industry standards. As far as piping a boiler in Iron Pipe or Copper,
I have asked some of the boiler manufacturers about it, and although they all
agreed that because of the differences in the rate of expansion and
contraction between the two materials as compared to a caste iron boiler, it
is better to pipe it with steel pipe and caste iron fittings.
Most Home Owners who have either recently purchased their home, or may have
purchased it a while ago, and have a steam system, were probably never told
what they should do with their system to maintain it. On a steam boiler there
is installed at the factory, one of two types of a "Low Water
Cut-off" control (LWCO) that will shut off the burner when the water
level in a boiler is too low for safe operation. One type of a LWCO is a
probe type, which is a sensor mounted in the boiler, into the water level at
the lowest level for safe operation. This type should be taken out of the
boiler and cleaned off and checked once a year during routine boiler
maintenance. The second type is a "Float Type" with some of these
type having a drain valve at the bottom of it. Whether you have a boiler
"Auto Feed" or you have to add water to the boiler manually once
every week or two, the drain at the bottom of this type of LWCO should be
opened up and flushed out into a pail at least every two weeks. The purpose
of this control is to keep the burner from firing when there is NOT ENOUGH
WATER in the boiler for safe operation. When the boiler runs out of water and
the burner does not shut off, the caste iron of the boiler near the burner
flames will turn red hot and can cause a fire. The biggest cause of steam
boiler replacement is when someone goes to their boiler and doesn't see any
water in the site glass, the burner is still running, and they haven't
noticed a smell of something burning or see that the boiler is red hot, and
they add water. Next thing they hear is a loud snap and water starts to flow
out of the bottom of the boiler.
What that person should have done was shut off the boiler service switch and
NOT ADD ANY WATER for an hour. After which they could have refilled the
boiler to the proper level and turned the service switch back on. Then call
their Boiler Service Technician and schedule an appointment to have it looked
at, especially the LWCO. A
Hydronic Boiler is very similar to a Steam Boiler, except it doesn't
allow the burner to boil the water inside hot enough to create steam. It is a
pressurized system, mostly using circulators to push the water through the
zone or multiple zones, through some form of heat convector (baseboard
heaters, radiators, fan coils, convectors, floor radiant) and back to the
boiler to be reheated. This type of system has an auto feed system and
operates on 12 to 20 psi of pressure. The more zones you have the more
efficient it is. There is very little that a home owner needs to do to this
type of system as compared to a steam system. As all heating appliances, they
should be serviced once a year by a trained professional service technician. A
Furnace is a heating appliance that draws air from a room or
building, either by natural draft or by use of a fan, and heats up that air
and sends it out into a room or building. Most people confuse a Furnace for a
boiler and visa versa. Boilers heat water and Furnaces heat air. About the
only thing that a home owner might do as routine maintenance goes with a
Furnace is change the filter before the heating season, or perhaps once more
during the heating season, depending on the air quality. And again, a Furnace
should be serviced once a year by a professional service technician. A
Duct system, Central Heating and/or Air Conditioning, uses a fan to
blow air through ducts, either of metal or compressed fiber glass, or both,
and allows the user to have different variations of air filtration to take
contaminants out of the air. The least expensive air filtration is a basic
washable filter, which only filters out some lint and some pet hairs. The
better the air filtration system, the more that will be filtered out. Even an
Ultraviolet Light can be installed to kill most of anything that is organic
in nature. In a Central Heating System, a humidifier can be installed to add
some moisture to the air. A Furnace with or without an Air Conditioning Coil
mounted to it can use a duct system, as well as an Air Handler. An
Air Handler generally has an Air Conditioning Coil in it and also
could have a Heating Coil (Hydro Air System) in it or installed in line after
it. Some may even use an Electric Heating Coil with a Heat Pump. This type of
system can be one zone or several. This type of system uses ducts to direct the
air from system to room and back. Again, the more zones the more efficient
the system will be. A
Ductless System, or "Mini Split" System, is generally an
Air Conditioning System, though some manufacturers offer electric coil strips
and heat pumps for heating purposes. A Mini Split System usually is installed
when there isn't any room for ducts. A Mini Split generally has a
"Head", which houses the Evaporator Coil and fan, and is mounted
high on an outside wall, or in the ceiling. A hole through the wall to the
outside allows the refrigeration pipes, the condensate drain, and the wiring
to go out to the condenser. A Mini Split can be one head or as many as 4
heads. They are not as good as a Central Heating and Air Conditioning System,
but are a permanent system like them, and are better than a window air
conditioner. Air
to Air Energy Recovery Systems are basically a small fan coil that
takes out air from a room, your home, or any reasonably sized area and
exhausts it outside, while simultaneously bringing in fresh outside air back
inside. In the process, it will transfer most of the energy (heating or
cooling) from the out going air to the in coming air. This type of system can
be installed as a separate system or it can work with a ducted system. Don't let anyone tell you
that just because your heating appliance uses Natural Gas or Propane Gas,
that it Does Not need yearly servicing like an oil fired one.
There are things that need to be checked annually as well. Check with your
appliance manufacturer about it. They all have Customer Support phone numbers
and/or on line support available. |
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